The Beginning Basics
Okay, the first step in your quest to grow marijuana is to find a proper grow space. The author currently grows plants in an area 5’ by 10’. It is a closeted area located right next to the crawl space of the house which allows for proper ventilation. What you are looking for in a grow space is an area that is locked away from children, pets, and other unwanted intruders. It’s actually the law in Colorado to grow in a secured environment, so make sure to put a lock on the door into your grow room should that be your route. The next best solution for complete security and to prevent unwanted smells from nosy neighbors is to purchase a grow tent. You can get big or small tents depending on your grow needs and they can be placed near windows or other areas with good ventilation. They are usually a couple hundred dollars but can be used over and over for subsequent grows. The best part is that locking them isn’t a problem, you just lock the zipper so nobody can gain access. They really keep everything contained in one location as well. Grow tents can also be placed out in the open in your home without being an eye sore. The larger dispensaries have grow warehouses filled with hundreds of plants but you don’t need to start there!
Should you not go the grow tent route and you already have a suitable growing area, then this space should be as big as you can possibly make it. In the state of Colorado, 6 plants can be grown at once for most people unless you have extenuating medical circumstances. This means that 3 can be flowering at one time. An area 3’ by 3’ is just about the smallest area you could have and still flower 3 plants. If you have a medical license then you could be growing up to about 100 plants for edibles, hashes, and other concentrates. This type of a grow operation usually requires more than one person to manage and can be very costly. Hopefully you as the reader can adapt the techniques in this guide to maintain the number of plants you plan on growing for your needs.
When evaluating a grow area, it is also important to make sure you can properly clean and ventilate the area. For the cleaning part, it’s always good to use a pressure washer on the floors and walls if possible. Also, If you follow the recommendations of this guide, you will be using lights that emit a lot of heat. A properly ventilated grow room will help you avoid cooking your crop. It will also make sure that the plants are receiving fresh air at all times. What they are going to do is take in carbon dioxide and release oxygen. If there isn’t a lot of air exchange, then the plants essentially can’t breathe properly. The room becomes way more saturated with oxygen and not enough carbon dioxide and things get out of whack. This can lead to lower yields and unhealthy plants. Proper ventilation is also important to get the marijuana smell out of the house. It is pungent and it will permeate the whole home unless you take the necessary steps to prevent this from occurring. They sell charcoal filters of varying sizes that essentially eliminate any smell whatsoever. They are a life saver if you desire to keep your grow on the down low. They are also needed to prevent greedy people from figuring out that you have thousands of dollars of high grade marijuana growing in your house. People will recognize your grow as a source of income and it’s very necessary to protect it from these types. With that being said, if you can find a grow space that is near a window, crawl space, or some other area where you can use a fan or fans to route old air out and bring fresh air in then that would be perfect.
It is also important that the floor of your grow room be some sort of material that you won’t mind getting wet. No matter how hard you try, you are going to be constantly spilling water and dirt on the floor and this can become a problem if it’s a carpeted area. While this type of grow room is not ideal, you can still grow effectively, but be as careful as you can with spills. One of the solutions to this water and dirt all over your floor problem is to purchase plastic tarps. These are a life saver to grow weed easy by keeping things contained. You can cut them to virtually any length or size of your grow room. It is ideal to cut the tarp into a piece a little bigger than the actual size of your grow room so that you can create somewhat of a basin to keep things contained. If you have a little extra money though, go ahead and purchase a grow tent because these keep everything contained naturally in one secure area. If for some reason the tarp or grow tent idea won’t work then they sell these grow trays as well that keep things cleaner.
Another factor is finding an area with a lot of height in the room. If you follow the recommendations of this guide, then you can expect your plants to grow anywhere from 4-6 feet tall when they are just about ready to harvest. Make sure you are going to have room. If you don’t have a tall area, then this is okay as well. More information on how to stunt your plants growth will be explained later on in the guide.
Time is also a factor for the grow room. Based on your growing technique, to take plants to maturity could take anywhere from 2.5 months to 5 months. Make sure you aren’t going to be needing the space you are using to grow for any other application.
Alright, so you’ve read the preceding paragraphs and maybe you live in an apartment or just don’t have any suitable place to grow marijuana. Don’t worry, not all is lost. There are various techniques for growing that will work with just a closet, a garage, or an attic even in the winter months. If you wanted to grow just one plant, then an area 1.5’ by 1.5’ would work just fine. As stated earlier, the plants can sometimes get pretty tall but if you don’t have an area that allows you to keep a 6’ plant, there are other ways to grow indoors. Keep reading because it will be explained later on how to deal with the “Not So Ideal” grow spaces. Whatever you do, don’t give up hope. The author has found that almost any environment can be used to grow high quality marijuana.
The bigger the better if you can. In the authors’ opinion, nothing less than 5 gallon pots should be used long term. The roots of a marijuana plant expand very rapidly and you want them to have as much room to grow as possible. The author has found that in every case, a smaller pot leads to smaller yields. They sell rubbermaid tubs on Amazon.com that make great growing pots because the roots can expand to their true potential. Another solution is to buy buckets that you can get in bulk here. Just drill a few holes in the bottom and they work just as good as pots. Aside from this, one of the easiest ways to get great results for your marijuana grow is to purchase grow bags. These are super easy to maintain and they allow the roots to really breathe resulting in stunning grows and even better yields. These bags can also be bought in bulk and are worth every penny.
Get yourself a tray to collect water runoff or a tarp, and you should be all set. The also sell very cheap plastic trays that slide underneath the 2 gallon to 5 gallon pots and can be found online for around a dollar each. Just about any plate, or Tupperware can be used to collect the water run off as well. So if you have read this entire paragraph and for some reason you just can’t find a 5 gallon bucket then again, not all is lost. Techniques will be explained further along in this guide to show you how to grow marijuana with a smaller pot.
The Grow Medium
This is a section that could be very long in a different growing manual. The author believes that every newbie should start out growing in soil. You could gradually gain more experience growing hydroponically but this is more complex and prone to human error. Hydroponic growing requires no soil, only nutrients and water. These are mixed together in the right amounts at the right time to feed the plant. The author has seen no evidence that either growing method produces any more yield than the other. Stick with soil for now and you will easily grow great yields with less effort and less cost than it would take hydroponically.
Soil is key, absolutely key. If there is one aspect of growing marijuana that you shouldn’t screw up, then it’s the soil. Don’t just use dirt from the backyard or any old soil from the hardware store either unless you have to. Marijuana soil should contain all the essential nutrients that this specific plant needs to grow. Picking good soil can also save you money because you’re picking dirt that has already been infused with desirable vitamins and minerals. This means you don’t have to buy expensive nutrients until later on. With that being said, the author uses Happy Frog soil almost exclusively to grow weed easy. It contains the right amount of ingredients to get the plants a solid start. He feels that if it isn’t broken, don’t fix it. Happy Frog soil is by no means the end all be all of soils but happens to be what the author started out on and hasn’t changed since day one of growing. There are many soils which would be perfect but don’t pay too much for them. Also stay away from used dirt because the nutrients have been depleted already. Again, soil is key. Make sure to start your plants out right.
The author has found that the temperature isn’t super important to the growth or yield of marijuana plants as long as it is kept between 60 and 80 degrees. He accomplishes this with the means of a portable heater in the winter time and strategic fans in the summer. If your grow area is very small and you are using high powered lights then an air conditioning unit is recommended. These can be a life saver if your grow room gets too hot and you’ve tried everything else. As long as you have a proper ventilation plan, you can purchase these portable AC units and keep the temperature in line. Growing indoors makes it a lot easier to keep the temperatures steady. Marijuana grows at around the same temperature that most people maintain their houses at. Also, don’t worry if you are growing indoors in the winter time and your grow room gets cold. You can easily go pick up that little electric heater from Amazon with an adjustable thermostat so that you don’t have to mess with it. Just set it to 65 degrees for instance and leave it be. Also, be aware that when you are flowering your plants, your lights will be on for 12 hours and off for 12 hours. When the lights are on, the grow room will heat up, and when the lights are off, it will get much colder. Be aware of this and make sure you adjust for these changes in temperature. Usually, experienced growers leave the lights off for 12 hours during the day and turn them on during the night. This really helps to reduce the heat buildup in your grow space. Timers will be needed for keeping a consistent lights on/lights off cycle. These aren’t too expensive and should be purchased unless you decide to turn the lights on and off at the same time every day. You need to make it consistent though because the marijuana plants are very sensitive to light and adjust better to a set schedule opposed to a random light cycle. Serious problems occur when you mess with light schedules or turn the lights on during the 12 hour off cycle. More about this later but let’s continue.
Wow, lights are a definite essential for growing just about any living plant. Marijuana is no different. Plants need the sun to grow and since you will be growing indoors, you will need to recreate the sun inside your grow room. Lights with the most wattage are best. There are a wide variety of different options but the author recommends using High Pressure Sodium lights, or HPS. This has been the cheapest and best light to use depending on where you will be growing. They work best if you have a well ventilated room though. A lot of people will tell you to go with LED lights but these types of lights are generally more expensive. However, they are another option to get the job done and reduce your electricity bill by a lot. They also do not emit half the amount of heat that the HPS lights do. If you don’t have a ton of ventilation options, then you should at least check out the LEDs and see if they are for you. The reason the author uses HPS lights is because we’re trying to cut down on growing costs in this guide. There are other options for lighting as well as those mentioned here but for the most part, they are more expensive and the author just sticks with what he knows.
Not a lot of detail will be given in this guide about lumens, or other technical knowledge about these grow light options. All you need to know is that the more wattage the light has, the better. The author is a big fan of 1000W HPS lighting fixtures. Under one of these lights you could grow between 4-6 plants and get somewhere in the range of 12-15 oz yield after 3 months of growing. A 1000W HPS complete setup can be found on Amazon for roughly 200 dollars. Very inexpensive and this includes the ballast as well as the hood. Some packages even contain the necessary bulbs. If you are serious about ventilation then you can get something like a cool tube. You will need an inline fan as well if you go this route but it’s recommended by the author. The cool tubes pull stale air and heat from the bulb out of the grow room very efficiently. Be aware that your electrical bill will go up once you start keeping your lights on for 24 hours a day but the benefits of having your own crop outweigh this expense. If you’ve been doing any research into growing marijuana besides this guide then no doubt you have found information about metal halide lights as well. It’s strongly recommended to uses metal halide lighting while keeping the lights on for 24 hours a day. This is only done while your clones or seedlings are in the veg cycle. There is a different spectrum that growing, but not budding, plants enjoy. This isn’t to say that you can’t use your normal HPS bulbs but it is indeed recommended to use metal halide during this first stage of growth. If you are lucky, you can find a lighting setup that can be used with a metal halide bulb as well as an HPS bulb. With the flip of a switch and a change in the bulb, you can use both. These types of setups are getting popular and can be attained rather cheaply. More about the vegging cycle later on in this guide.
Don’t worry too much about the type of bulb you buy either. The author has found that any horticulture bulb works. If your lighting setup doesn’t come with a bulb then a 1000W HPS bulb, brand new, can be found on Amazon for roughly $35 including shipping. Be careful of buying so called “New Bulbs” on Craigslist.org as you can’t tell if they are really new. It’s not much more expensive to just order a new one online and you will be assured that your bulb has a lot of life left in it. In general, one bulb will last you two grow cycles or about 6 months of use. It’s a good deal for the money. As far as how far away from your plants you want the lights to be, you should keep them as close to the tops of your plants as you can without burning them. The farther away your lights are, the more lumens you are losing. This lost light could be used to help the plants grow. The way to tell if you are close enough is to place your hand about the same distance from the light as your plants are. If it’s too hot to keep your hand there for 30 seconds, then raise the lights. You want to maximize the light energy but not burn the plant. In the common problems section, you will be instructed on how to recognize light burn on your plants. If you can’t get your hands on a 1000W HPS, then you can also get a 400 or 600 watt light fixture and these will also be sufficient. Don’t expect the same yield as you would get with a bigger wattage light though. Two to three plants would grow fine under smaller HPS light fixtures. There are also other very expensive light fixtures and bulbs that can get the job done. Not necessarily better than any ordinary HPS fixture but will reduce electricity costs and are more efficient. People have been growing marijuana with HPS for decades now though and have consistently seen large yields. Don’t get sold something that you really don’t need. Aside from HPS, Metal Halide, and LED’s, the author doesn’t have any further recommendations. Again, he has found a very effective lighting system and if it isn’t broken, then don’t fix it.
The author uses regular Colorado tap water and has never had any ill effects. He makes sure that the water has a PH of between 6.0 and 6.5 but hasn’t spent the money on a filtration system. If you really want to use filtered water, then that would be ideal but be prepared to purchase some sort of RO/DI system or pre-filtered water which can get expensive. The most important aspect of the water you use is that it be within the optimum PH range for your plants. If it is not within the 6-7 range then your plants will suffer. They won’t be able to uptake any of the special nutrients you are going to be giving them. There are many affordable PH kits that you can use to both test and modify your water so that it is within the appropriate range. Any grow shop will be able to point you in the right direction but don’t pay more than $10-$15. Another useful device to make sure your water or tap water is okay for growing is a dissolved solvent meter. This great product will tell you how many dissolved solids there are in the water you are using to feed your plants. You will be adding nutrients to the water as well and you don’t want to over feed your plants. This leads to leaf burn and other problems such as lower yields and toxic soil. A tip of advice is to test the water after you have added the nutrients. This ensures that you get an accurate reading of what you will actually be feeding your plants.
Ventilation and Air Flow
Ventilation is important. You should have at least one fan in your grow room to provide circulation to your plants. You want them to sway gently in the wind. This makes sure that the oxygen they are releasing is blown away with fresh air and there is enough CO2 to absorb. The author uses a fan that rotates so that it blows evenly over the crop. The second reason to have good ventilation is because of heat. If you are using the author’s recommended 1000W HPS light, then you will have heat that probably will need to be removed from the grow room to avoid overheating. Different kinds of fans are used for this purpose. They are called inline fans and once again, can be found rather inexpensively on Amazon.com. Ideally, you will need 2 inline fans in your grow room. One to bring fresh air into the room and one to route the old, hot air out. This can be achieved with ducting you can find online for cheap. Just be sure to match up the inline fan sizes with the ducting. Popular fan and ducting combinations are 4”, 6” and 8”. The 8” combo is obviously better because it allows more airflow but if you don’t have a huge grow then it shouldn’t be a problem to use smaller sizes.
Watering is important. Assuming you start with some sort of marijuana clone or seedling, once it is transplanted into a mother pot, watering should be done with care. At first, make sure you don’t overwater. Get yourself a watering can here and carefully get the surface of the dirt completely wet. At this point you actually don’t even need a watering can, you could use a cup if you wanted. Later on though you will want to have a watering can that will be easy to reach plants in the far corners of your grow space. It’s worth it to spend a little more on a can with a long spout. One thing to realize is that when you are using nutrients in your water, you never want to expose fan leaves or buds to these chemicals. You want to only apply them directly to the dirt and roots. If you splash nutrients on these fan leaves then you will destroy them. They will burn within a few hours and will need to be removed. You want a watering can that will allow you to easily reach the root area without splashing or hitting these important leaves. You should be putting enough water in the soil so that you can see just a little exit as water runoff as well. As your plants grow, be aware that you will be using more and more water. Eventually you are going to be dumping water into your potted plants because the root structure has gotten so large. The more water you can use without over watering them the better. It’s definitely a delicate balance but you will get the hang of this. The author has never had a plant die because of overwatering but has seen some plants’ leaves droop as a result of too much. Scroll down to the common problems section for more info on what it looks like if you are over watering your plants. You don’t want them sitting in water all the time either. This leads to root rot and bug problems, maybe even mold at times. It is recommended to not leave standing water in the water runoff trays for very long.
Ideally, you will be watering your plants about every few days depending on how they look. It’s always better to under water your plants versus over watering them. If the first two inches of soil are dry, then you probably are ready to water them again. When you start to flower your crop, and the root system is very elaborate, they are going to soak up water like you won’t believe. This is perfect! Give it to them. Water is one of the most essential elements of growing marijuana. Under watering leads to smaller yields and less healthy plants that don’t grow as fast. You want to be as efficient as possible, so don’t be stingy on the watering. If you have any further questions about how much or how little to water, you can always get a water meter that takes the guesswork out of this process. Just place it in the dirt and see how dry it is!
A plant that is properly dosed with nutrients will be a healthy plant. Different nutrients will need to be used during the different stages of marijuana plants growing. During the vegging stage, you do not need to use anything special for the first few weeks, especially if you have bought some soil like Happy Frog or the equivalent competitor’s soil. These mediums are already infused with all the nutrients you need for the vegging plant. After the first few weeks, go to your local grow store or shop online and get yourself a “Vegging” nutrient supplement. Don’t go out and buy 10 different types of nutrients though. All you need is one supplement for vegging and a different one for flowering plants. Make sure you are purchasing from a reputable brand though as this will prevent you from getting unnecessary nutrient burn on your plants. After you purchase your preferred nutrient supplements, make sure to use about half of what is recommended on the bottle. These plants need nutrients but not too much. Almost every nutrient company out there over states the amount of nutrients that the plant actually needs. Use half the recommended dosage for optimum results for your marijuana grow.
Marijuana is a weed and will grow in virtually any type of medium with just about any dirt and nutrient combination. Be cautious and don’t fall into the expensive and unnecessary practice of inundating your plants with nutrients they don’t need. A great strategy is to use just one particular nutrient line such as Fox Farm. Again, they can be found in virtually any grow store as well but Amazon typically has them for cheaper.
The smell of your grow could be of either great concern to you or not a concern at all depending on your living situation. Marijuana plants do smell though and even one or two plants can potentially stink up your house. The marijuana clones smell, the vegging plants smell, and the plants with huge buds on them smell. There is no way that you can avoid an odor when you are growing cannabis. The only thing you can do is either mask the smell or use proper ventilation and ducting which will take the air from your grow room directly outside. Certain strains smell stronger than others but as a general rule, expect the growing marijuana to smell and either prepare for it or maybe it just isn’t a big deal to you. If you do have a problem with the smell though, then purchase a carbon filter. There are many different types of carbon filters on the market today. You are going to have to evaluate your growing area and the fans you are using and purchase one or two based on your needs. You can purchase carbon filters, or sacks of carbon from any grow store, Walmart, or online. If you don’t have enough money for a carbon filter, place a bag of carbon behind an exit fan so that it pulls the smelly air through the filter and then outside. This will completely kill the smell or at least make it manageable.
Chapter 2 Overview: Find a location to grow your marijuana, the right size pot, good soil with nutrients, the right lighting, ventilation and WATER WATER WATER.
Pathfinder - Educational Research
Basic, applied, and development research conducted to advance knowledge in the field of education or bearing on educational problems.
- Action research education
- Classroom research
- Curriculum research
- Effective schools research
- Educational reports
- Proposal writing in education research
- Reading research
- Writing research
- Behavioral science research
- Educational researchers
- Educational testing
- Experimental teaching
- Field research
- Graduate surveys
- Institutional research
- Research committees
- Research coordinating units
- Research and teaching units
- School surveys
- Social science research
[Quoted from: http://cunningham.acer.edu.au/dbtw-wpd/sample/edresearch.htm]
Reference sources located at the Information-Reference Section, 2nd floor:
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Texts located at the American Studies Resource Center (ASRC), 1st floor:
Texts located at the Br. Andrew Gonzalez Hall Library, 2nd floor:
Texts located at the Circulation Section, 3rd floor:
- Action research and postmodernism : congruence and critique. Tony Brown and Liz Jones. LB1028.24 B76 2001
- Action research in education. Ernie Stringer. LB1028.24 .S87 2004
- Action research in practice : partnerships for social justice in education. Bill Atweh. LB1028.24 A27 1998
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- Decentralization of educational management experiences from South Asia : with case studies. R. Govinda. LB 2862 G68 1997
- Discourse in educational and social research. Maggie MacLure. LB1028 .M3324 2003
- The dissemination of educational research results : a report on the sixth follow-up meeting to the Bellagio Conference Education and Development. B. Avalos. LB1028 .D57 1981
- Documentary research in education, history, and the social sciences. Gary McCulloch. H62 .M237 2004
- Doing educational research in developing countries : qualitative strategies. Graham Vulliam, Keith Lewin, David Stephens. LB1028.25 D44 V84 1990
- Doing research about education. Geoffrey Walford. LB1028 .D65 1998
- Early childhood educational research : issues in methodology and ethics. Carol Audrey. LB1139.225 E27 2000
- Educational research. Edward L. Vockell. LB1028\b. V6 1998
- Educational research : a practical approach. George R. Bieger. LB1028 .B54 1996
- Educational research : a structure for inquiry. Charles D. Hopkins. LB1028 .H65 1990
- Educational research : an introduction. Meredith D. Gall. LB1028 .B6 2003a
- Educational research and policy-making : exploring the border country between research and policy. Lesley Saunders. LC93.G7 E39 2007 [IN_CATALOGING ]
- Educational research : competencies for analysis and applications. L.R. Gay. LB1028 .G39 2003
- Educational research : quantitative and qualitative approaches. Burke Johnson. LB1028 .J639 2000
- Educational research environments in Southeast Asia. S. Gopinathan, H. Dean Nielsen. LB1028.25 A785 E38 1988
- Educational research for social justice : getting off the fence. Morwenna Griffiths. LB1028 .G75 1998
- Educational research in action. Roger Gomm, Peter Woods. LB1028.25.G7 E38 1993
- Educational research measurement and evaluation. Laurentina Paler-Calmorin. LB1028 .C35 1994
- Educational research outlines. LB1028 .E385 1968 v.1
- Educational research undone : the postmodern embrace. Ian Stronach, Maggie MacLure. LB1028 .S754 1997
- Elements of educational research. Hildreth Hoke McAshan. LB1028 .M27
- Essentials of educational research : methodology and design. Carter V. Good. LB 1028 G592 1972a
- Essentials of educational research : methodology and design. Carter V. Good. LB1028 .G592 1966
- Forms of curriculum inquiry. Edmund C. Short. LB 1570 F66 1991
- Fundamentals of educational research. Violeta A. Vega. LB1028 .V44 2004
- Fundamentals of educational research and data analysis : a PAFTE textbook developmental project. Roberto N. Padua, Rosita G. Santos. LB1028 .P34 1998
- Guiding school improvement with action research. Richard Sagor. LB1028.24 S24 2000
- How to design and evaluate research in education. Jack R. Fraenkel. LB1028 .F7 2006a
- Improving linkages between research and educational reform : report of a regional seminar. LB1028.25.A78 I46 1990
- Interpreting educational research : an introduction for consumers of research. Daniel R. Hittleman, Alan J. Simon. LB1028 .H57 1997
- Introduction to educational research. C.M. Charles, Craig A. Mertler. LB1028 .C4 2002
- Inventory of educational research on higher education problems undertaken by higher education institutions. Unesco. LB 2331 I58 1987
- Issues in educational research. John P. Keeves and Gabriele Lakomski. LB1028 .I87 1999
- Judging educational research based on experiments and surveys. Richard M. Wolf. LB1028.2 W65 1993
- Life history research in educational settings : learning from lives. Ivor F. Goodson and Pat Sikes. CT22 .G66 2001
- Locating learning : ethnographic perspectives on classroom research. Catherine Emihovich. LB1028 .L6 1989
- Methods of evaluating educational technology. Walter Heinecke, Laura Blasi. LB1028.3 .M47 2001
- Multivariate analysis : techniques for educational and psychological research. Maurice M. Tatsuoka, Paul R. Lohnes. QA 278 T37 1988
- Philosophy of educational research. Harry S. Broudy, Robert H. Ennis, Leonardo I. Krimerman. LB1028 .B7
- Policy research in educational settings : contested terrain. Jenny Ozga. LB1028.25G7 O94 2000
- Practitioner research in education : making a difference. David Middlewood, Marianne Coleman, Jacky Lumby. LB1028 .M5 1999
- Research in education. John W. Best. LB1028 .B4 1989
- Research in education : a conceptual introduction. James H. McMillan, sally Schumacher. LB1028 .M334 2001
- Research in education and the behavioral sciences : concepts and methods. Emmanuel J. Mason, William J. Bramble. LB1028 .M37 1997
- Research in educational settings. Geoffrey Maruyama. LB1028.25U6 M37 1992
- Research methods in education. Louis Cohen. LB1028 .C6 1985
- Research methods in educational leadership and management. Ann R.J. Briggs. LB2805 .R46 2007
- Small steps, great strides : doing participatory action research with children. Ma. Theresa Dela Cruz. LB1028.24 .D44 2002
- Social crisis & educational research. Len Barton. LC 191 S597 1984
- Strengthening educational research in developing countries : report of a seminar held at the Royal Swedish Academy of Sciences, Stockholm, 12-14 September 1991. Arfah Aziz. LB1028 .S75 1991
- A survey of the evaluation methods and techniques of educational plans, programmes and projects within the framework of the implementation of educational policies. Qutub Uddin Khan. LB1027 .K45 1985
- Teacher as reflective practitioner and action researcher. Richard D. Parsons, Kimberle S. Brown. LB1028.24 P34 2002
- The methodology of educational research. Carter V. Good. LB1028 .G6 1938
- The organization of educational research : comparative education study. International Bureau of Education. LB1028 .I5
- The science of educational research. George J. Mouly. LB1028 .M6 1970
- Translating theory and research into educational practice : developments in content domains, large-scale reform, and intellectual capacity. Mark A. Constas, Robert J. Sternberg. LB1028 .T69 2006
- Understanding and evaluating educational research. James H. McMillan. LB1028 .M335 2006
- Understanding educational research. David Scott. LB1028 .U54 1996
- Understanding educational research : an inquiry approach. Charles D. Hopkins. LB1028 .H66 1980
- Understanding educational research : an introduction. Deobold B. Van Dalen. LB 1028 V3 1979a
- Understanding, designing and conducting qualitative research in education : framing the project. John F. Schostak. LB1028 .S36 2002
- Using educational research : a school administrator's guide. Emil J. Haller. LB 2806 H25 2001
- What research has to say about reading instruction. S. Jay Samuels. LB1050 .W4 1992
Texts located at the European Documentation & Research Centre (EDRC), 1st floor:
Texts located at the Filipiniana Section, 4th floor:
Texts located at the Special Collection Archives Section, 4th floor:
PRINT (Periodicals Section, 2nd floor)
- Defining, conceptualizing, and measuring fidelity of implementation and its relationship to outcomes in K-12 curriculum intervention research. Carol L O'Donnell. Review of Educational Research 78 (1) : March 2008. p. 33+
- Professional development in integrating technology into teaching and learning : knowns, unknowns, and ways to pursue better questions and answers. Kimberly A Lawless, James W Pellegrino. Review of Educational Research 77 (4) : Dec 2007. p. 575+
- Race, school achievement, and educational inequality : toward a student-based inquiry perspective. Greg Wiggan. Review of Educational Research 77 (3) : September 2007. p. 310+
- School adjustment in the early grades : toward an integrated model of neighborhood, parental, and child processes. Saundra Murray Nettles, Margaret O'Brien Caughy, Patricia J O'Campo. Review of Educational Research 78 (1) : March 2008. p. 3+
- Teaching effectiveness research in the past decade : the role of theory and research design in disentangling meta-analysis results. Tina Seidel, Richard J Shavelson. Review of Educational Research 77 (4) : December 2007. p. 454+
European Documents Research Centre (EDRC), 1st floor:
Periodicals Section, 2nd floor:
(Archives Section, 4th floor)
- Endline study on math and science teaching for the SBTP. Roleda, Lydia S.2005
- Endline study on math and science teaching for the SBTP. Limjap, Auxencia A.2005
- Endline study on math and science teaching for the SBTP. Bernardo, Allan Benedict I.2005
- Endline study on math and science teaching for the SBTP. Prudente, Maricar S. 2005
- The item analysis, reliability, and validity studies of the Stanford Achievement Test 7 (SAT 7)-read comprehension. Gonzales, Raymond A.
- Promoting utilization of a data center for policy making, decision making and academic research. Gonzalez, Andrew B., FSC.
- A review of the state-of-the-art of educational research : the Philippine experience, part 2. De Jesus, Belen B. (retired)
- A review of Leithwood, Kenneth A. and Deborah V. Montgomery. improving principal effectiveness : the principal profile. Journal of Educational Management1 April 19, 1989. Ables, Higino A.
- Self-concept : a very significant factor in reading. Santos, Mary Christine A. Search: CSA Research Journal 85-99, First Semester, 1999-2000
(Information-Reference Section, 2nd floor)
(Information-Reference Section, 2nd floor)
THESES AND DISSERTATIONS
LOCAL (Archives Section, 4th floor)
- An evaluation of factors that influence principalship appointments in the Metropolitan Nashville Davidson County Public School System from 2000--2006. Braden, Sam, III , Ed.D, Tennessee State University, 2007 AAT 3280758
- Examination of the historical sensemaking processes representing the development of knowledge management programs in universities : case studies associated with an emergent discipline. Sutton, Michael J.D., Ph.D., McGill University (Canada), 2007 AAT NR32329
- Hear our voices : African American parent and student perspectives for promoting academic excellence in elementary schooling. Foster, Bweikia, Ed.D., University of San Francisco, 2007 AAT 3267764
- New York State public secondary school principals' perceptions of the skills a department chair needs to effectively lead and administer a department. Surash, Barbara M., Ed.D., University of Rochester, 2007 AAT 3263969
- Small school reform : the perceptions of principals regarding the degree of school autonomy realized in five key areas of small school reform. Herrera, Joel Ruiz, Ed.D., University of La Verne, 2007 AAT 3253580
(Cybernook, Ground floor, Graduate corners, 2nd and 3rd floor)
Education Resources Information Center
[Retrieved on June 12, 2008]
"Provides free access to more than 1.2 million bibliographic records of journal articles and other education-related materials dating back to 1966. It also includes links to full text."
[Retrieved on June 11, 2008]
A "freely accessible database of the full text of conference papers, working papers and electronic literature which supports educational research, policy and practice."
[Retrieved on June 11, 2008]
"Provides pioneering educational research and analysis, innovative educational assessment and product development and informative policy studies to advance both quality and equity in education for all people worldwide".
Practical Assessment, Research and Evaluation
[Retrieved on June 12, 2008]
"Practical Assessment, Research and Evaluation (PARE) is an on-line journal supported, in part, by the Department of Measurement, Statistics, and Evaluation at the University of Maryland, College Park. Its purpose is to provide education professionals access to refereed articles that can have a positive impact on assessment, research, evaluation, and teaching practice".
Research Papers : Study Pathways of International Students in Australia
[Retrieved on June 12, 2008]
"This series of papers present Australian Education International (AEI) research which highlights broad trends in study pathways by international students studying in Australia on a student visa".
Should you have comments or suggestions on this pathfinders, please call us at these telephone numbers, 536-0244, 524-4611 local 620 or email us through “Ask LORA”.
Compiled by : Mrs. Yolanda Odsinada and Pablito Diez
Date : May 2008